Cha Chaan Teng: Comfort Food From Hong Kong's Iconic Diners

Peanut butter sandwiched into French toast, curry chicken baked into a pie, bolognese made Cantonese: the food of Hong Kong's cha chaan teng grew out of colonialism, migration and the meeting of East and West, and it has long fed everyone from day labourers to schoolchildren. Lucas Sin, a chef, teacher and writer named a Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2021, grew up eating in these diners, and as he watches his home city change he has set out to record their dishes.

His recipes are his own best interpretations of the classics: beef brisket soup, pineapple buns, slippery eggs over rice, golden rice and the milk tea that washes it all down. This is cooking meant to be affordable and quick to make. It belongs with anyone who loves Hong Kong, or simply loves food that comforts.